When casual Italian cafe Trattoria Centrale (formerly Za Za Trattoria) opened its doors in spring 2009, it was a dream ten years in the making. Longtime friends Geoff Lockert and chef Brian Somershield honed their skills, Brian at the Culinary Institute of America and Frank Stitt’s Highlands Bar & Grill and Chez Fon Fon; and Geoff as a server at Cleveland’s Lola and Chez Fon Fon. Much had changed since their first meeting on a little league baseball field in the summer of 1990.

On arriving in Italy for the first time, Brian was captivated by Rome’s loud, casual elegance and it instilled in him a love for its rustic cuisine. After finishing culinary school, Brian returned to Birmingham, Alabama’s Highlands Bar & Grill, where he had previously interned—a young Yankee cooking grits and collard greens for the first time. At home, Brian always turned to comforting pastas and the alchemistic nature of pizza dough.

While Brian studied the art of cooking, Geoff focused on mastering the ease and grace of managing the front of the house. His passion for wine grew as he was exposed to excellent selections at Lola and reasonably priced by-the-glass options at Birmingham’s Chez Fon Fon. Geoff and Brian focused the wine list at Trattoria Centrale, on bringing their customers unexpected varieties from up-and-coming regions.

Geoff and Brian say Trattoria Centrale’s location picked them, and that the menu sprung from it. Comforting meals, crafted from a combination of local ingredients and traditional makes up this unique downtown Birmingham dining experience. Starting in spring 2010, they will begin harvesting tomatoes, basil, and eggplant from their new rooftop garden.